OK, so the yarn I used was 3 strands of cotton/rayon (67/33%) yarn (very shiny, NO stretch). The gauge came out to be 16st X 21st in 10cm knit fairly loosely on 6mm (size 10 US) needles.
To get a similar drape, look, feel etc I would suggest trying Berroco Cotton Twist, KnitPicks Shine, or maybe even Lionbrand MicroSpun, but for the MicroSpun you may have to hold two strands together to get gauge, i don't remember quite how it knits up, but the texture is about right. The Berroco Cotton Twist looks like the closest match, but I've never worked with it.
If I count my 3 strand-yarn as one DK-weight strand I only used about 160 yards (145 meters)
The original minisweater/boobholder pattern can be found HERE on Glampyre's website. Study this FIRST. Make sure you understand how a raglan sleeve sweater is put together BEFORE you start.
Here's the full altered pattern, to the best of my abilities, plus my tips learned from making it and from FAQs seen on the Craftster boards.
So, instead of casting on 50, like she did in her worsted/bulky weight wool, I cast on 70 in my dk-weight cotton/rayon on my 6mm circular needle (my needles were pretty long, maybe 100cm tip-to-tip. Do not join. Many people complain about this pattern being too tight across the back. If you think you are particularly broad shouldered, increase the cast-on stitches to 75 (?). Glampyre just added a raglan sweater measuring guide to her site, so since I'm writing this pattern for stick insects like myself you might want to take some measurements if you actually have some womanly curves ;)
Work 8 rows garter stitch and divide as follows:
Row 1: Knit 13, place marker, knit 12 place marker, knit 20 (25 if you're broad shouldered) place marker, knit 12 place marker, knit13. (This is the top neckline, it should sit on your collarbone and just touch in the center.)
Row 2 and all even rows: knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, knit 5
Row 3 and all odd rows: knit, increasing one stitch before and after each marker. (she used k1 in row below to increase, I used bar increases on the raglan increases because I think they're pretty)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 6 times (you now have 13 total rows.)
Row 14,k5, purl, k5
Row 15, work increase row as normal, but increase five stitches evenly over both sleeve sections (the second, and smallest, section on either side of your needles). Use invisible increases for this.
Row 16: k5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 17: work increase row as normal, working sleeve sections as k3 m1, k3 m1, etc. over both sleeves.
Row 18: k5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.
Row 19: resume normal raglan increases.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 15 increase rows (30 rows total.)
Separate sleeves from body:
Place all body stitches on one piece of scrap yarn, and each sleeve on its own piece of scrap yarn. Try on your sweater. If the sleeve stitches meet at the underarm, it fits and you’re ready to move on. If it seems too small, do a few more increase rounds. Too big, take a few rows out.
Body:
Place all body stitches back onto the knitting needle and work as follows, remembering to keep the first and last five stitches of each row in garter stitch.
Increase on each end of every purl row like this:
K5, m1, purl to last 5 stitches, m1 k5. I worked 12 rows like this, but i'm really non-chested so you may need to do more, just until the front corners almost touch.
Garter stitch for three rows.
Next row (buttonhole row): Keeping in garter stitch, work 3 stitches, yo, work 2 together.
Garter stitch for three more rows and cast off loosely.
Sleeves (work the same). She knit them flat and seamed together, I knit in the round:
Switch to 16in circular needle or dpns :
Work in stockinette for 7 rows.
Rounds 8 and 10: k3 k2tog to end. ( If you have thicker arms only do the first decrease, sts for row 10)
Rounds 9, 11: knit
Round 12: k5, k2 tog to end.
Garter stitch for 5 rounds, cast off VERY LOOSELY.You may even want to switch to larger needles to cast off.
If you make this, let me know how it comes out!
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